6 mistakes when growing roses

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The summer residents is not only a garden and vegetable beds, it is also a colorful, fragrant sea of flowers, among which the rose occupies the most Regal place that rightfully belongs to it. Bushes of beautiful roses have long been the subject of pride and envy among summer residents, and it has become a matter of honor to get a new, most unusual and stunning variety of indescribable beauty into your flower garden every year. And so it is a shame that this “most-most” for some reason did not blossom, fell ill or even withered away.

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Roses do not like mistakes in care

Why is this happening? There are several mistakes that inexperienced (and sometimes even venerable) gardeners make when growing rose bushes. Today we will look at the most common of them.

Error 1: wrong pick-up location

It is a mistake to plant a rose just where “it will be beautiful”.

Why can’t a rose be planted everywhere?
To grow a healthy and profusely blooming rose Bush, you need to know where the plant will feel cozy and comfortable. Without taking into account the specific preferences of the rose, it is impossible to count on a beautiful flowering and longevity of the Bush. What are its features that can’t be ignored?

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We must remember that roses:
* light-loving. Light has a decisive effect on the strength of growth, the number of flowers and resistance to fungal diseases. The more light there is, the better the rose feels. At the same time, some varieties of wattled roses feel great in the shade, so, as with people, roses always need an “individual approach”.
• thermophilic. If there is a lack of heat, the accumulation of nutrients necessary for the normal development of the rose slows down. Most of all, the cold Northern and North-Eastern winds” take away ” heat, so it is desirable to protect roses from them.
* do not like wet soil. A long stay of roots in water leads to the extinction of the Bush from lack of oxygen. In addition, in winter, wet soil cools more, and the plant can freeze out.
* prefer neutral soils. The ideal soil acidity level (pH) for roses is 6-7. In neutral soils, the rose most easily absorbs the nutrients found there. When the pH increases or decreases, some of the substances pass into a form that is not available for assimilation by the plant.
• feel bad under the trees. If your rose grows in the shade of trees, do not expect it to flower. Trees will take away water and nutrients from it, because of the shade, the shoots will begin to lengthen, become thin, and the false buds that are formed will not give flowering. And it is even more likely that the plant will suffer from fungal diseases.

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We must not forget that roses are Queens

In short, we must not forget that roses are Queens. The place where they will feel comfortable and delight you with flowers should be Sunny, protected from cold winds, located at a relative distance from the trees.

Error 2: incorrect planting of grafted roses

If the rose is grafted, then when it is planted, the place of grafting is the weak link that needs to be paid special attention to. Correctly planted is considered a rose, the place of grafting which was 3-5 cm below the soil level. At the same time, on areas with sandy soils, the planting maybe a little deeper, and on clay soils — on the contrary, a little shallower.

Why is this so important?
• If the place of grafting during planting remains above the soil surface, then new buds and shoots on the seedling will be formed where it is well illuminated by the sun — that is, they will appear on the rootstock (rosehip). The resulting wild growth will begin to take away food and moisture from the cultural part of the rose, which will necessarily weaken its development.
• If the place of grafting is very deep, then the rose does not take root well, and when watering the root neck can lock up, rot — then the rose will die.

But for wattled roses, when planting, the grafting place should be deeper — about 10 cm below the soil level. These roses are planted in this way, forming roots on the cultural part of the seedling, and the deep roots of the rosehip do not give growth.

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Error 3: incorrect summer crop

Summer pruning of roses is a very important element of care. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to the two most common errors in this area.
1. Withered flowers remain on the branches
Many gardeners never remove withered flowers from the Bush. The petals fall off, and the branches remain as if not interfering with anyone’s fruit. But only “sort of” — in fact, this is wrong. Such carelessness in care can call into question all subsequent flowering of the Bush this year.

Why is this wrong?
Because, as it should be in nature, the plant will consider its mission to bloom completed and will begin to “work” on the formation of fruits and preparation for winter. But we need the rose to bloom! Therefore, it is necessary to cut the flowers without waiting for them to wither, which encourages the Bush to further flower formation.

2. Shoots without flowers are ignored
Unfortunately, we almost do not pay attention to blind shoots — those that do not bear flowers, considering that ” the Bush itself knows where to give flowers, and where not»

Why is this wrong?
By ignoring these shoots, we are depriving ourselves of many new flowers. But it is enough to activate such shoots by pruning, and they will turn into blooming!

It is necessary to correctly cut the blind shoots, and the appearance of new flowers will not take long.

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Error 4: surface watering

Roses should not feel the lack of water. Gardeners who water roses with an affectation, superficially, make a serious mistake: such watering, even if it is carried out daily, will not bring results.

Why is this wrong?
Surface irrigation is so named because only the surface layer of the soil is soaked, and the moisture does not reach the roots. And when the ground is visually well watered, the plant remains not watered.

Roses should not feel shortage of water

How to water correctly?
• It is best just before watering to make a circular hole 12-15 cm deep, fill it with standing water, and after the water is absorbed, cover with earth (not bad and mulch).
• The approximate frequency of watering: during active vegetation-once every 7-10 days, and in dry hot weather — after 3-5 days.
* One-time watering rate – from 5 to 10 liters per 1 Bush for groundcover roses and from 10 to 15 liters for wattle.
* You can not water the rose in the heat of the fire. This is best done in the evening. But if you water by sprinkling or spraying with a hose, then it is not recommended to water either on a Sunny day, so as not to cause burns to the plant, or in the evening, because the leaves that have not had time to dry will become a gateway for fungal infection.
* In early autumn, watering is recommended to reduce. The only exceptions are those varieties of roses that continue to bloom actively.

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Error 5: wrong approach to nutrition rose

Many inexperienced gardeners during flowering try to feed their Pets as best as possible… and make a huge mistake.

Why is this wrong?
It is not always good to feed the plant. Such a seemingly good deed can sometimes lead to the loss of flowers, and even to the death of the rose Bush.

It is important to understand when and what fertilizers the rose needs, and what will be harmful for it:
• A complete complex fertilizer, including nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in equal proportions, is important for the plant to get in early spring, and during flowering it will only cause harm.
• Nitrogen needs in the spring and early summer for active growth of shoots and leaves, and in autumn he will become the enemy plants because new shoots, the growth of which it will provoke, will not have time to get stronger and almost certainly in the winter will freeze.
* Phosphorus and potassium contribute to abundant flowering, so they will be useful and appropriate during budding.
• The last fertilization is carried out in mid-September, using a phosphorus-potassium mixture, and later fertilization will not bring benefits.
* Rotted and half-rotted manure is an excellent organic fertilizer, and fresh manure will cause burns to young roots.
• During the flowering period, it is advisable to suspend all fertilizing.
Error 6: incorrect preparation of roses for winter
When preparing rose bushes for winter cold, four mistakes are most common:
* Autumn fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers.
* Leaves remaining on the plant.
• Early shelter of the bushes.
* Significant pruning of shoots.

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Error 6: Pruning roses

Why is it wrong to do this?
* Nitrogen provokes the growth of new shoots, the wood of which will not have time to Mature, and these shoots will freeze out in winter.
• Leaves remaining on the stems, which retain pathogens and pests, can become a breeding ground for diseases under cover.
• Early shelter can lead to the fact that the growth processes in the shoots will not stop, and they will not have time to Mature, and therefore will freeze out. Shelter roses should be carried out after the first frost.
* Pruning is more appropriate to perform in early spring, when it will be clear which shoots successfully overwintered.


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